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Topics - The Dude

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16
Spellbook Design and Construction / Rosa Parks
« on: November 18, 2013, 01:34:26 AM »
Ring of Beasts   equipment   1   1
 Battle Forge   conjuration   1   5
 Harmonize   enchantment   1   2
 Dancing Scimitar   equipment   1   4
 Hunting Bow   equipment   2   3
 Dragonscale Hauberk   equipment   1   3
 Elemental Cloak   equipment   1   2
 Leather Boots   equipment   1   1
 Leather Gloves   equipment   1   1
 Moonglow Amulet   equipment   1   2
 Regrowth Belt   equipment   1   1
 Hawkeye   enchantment   2   1
 Tanglevine   conjuration   2   1
 Mana Flower   conjuration   2   1
 Dire Wolf   creature   2   3
 Steelclaw Grizzly   creature   2   4
 Timber Wolf   creature   2   2
 Rouse the Beast   incantation   2   1
 Cheetah Speed   enchantment   1   1
 Bear Strength   enchantment   1   1
 Eagle Wings   enchantment   1   2
 Falcon Precision   enchantment   2   1
 Rhino Hide   enchantment   2   1
 Jinx   enchantment   2   2
 Nullify   enchantment   2   2
 Chain Lightning   attack   1   6
 Hurl Boulder   attack   2   4
 Teleport   incantation   1   4
 Spiked Pit   enchantment   2   4
 Force Push   incantation   2   2
 Wall of Thorns   conjuration   1   1
 Knockdown   incantation   1   2
 Dispel   incantation   3   2
 Dissolve   incantation   2   2
 Defense Ring   equipment   1   2
 Cobra Reflexes   enchantment   2   2
 Enchanter's Ring   equipment   1   1


Alright, so I'm testing a new book out, what do you all think? It's mainly a ranged creature beater that relies on a buffed Forge for equip advantage, focusing on mana generation followed by larger creature strikes. The main opening goes like:

Run to near center, cast battle forge and harmonize behind you, bringing you to 7 mana. The next round you are casting amulet off of forge followed by double mana flower to bring you all the way down to 2 mana. Next turn, cast ring of beasts off of forge, and then start an onslaught of roused creatures. I would start with a timber wolf for 8. Next round you are at 16 casting enchanter's ring on yourself. Rousing a second timber here isn't bad for 10 mana total. Now I would use few rounds to cast small things on yourself, making sure you at least cast a hawkeye FD on yourself. Depending on how the game goes, you may want to buff your wolves, which you can do at your discretion.

A small note on the construction in this book. It was built with a defensive mindset. Instead of going balls out, I'm not afraid aggro which has worked for me in the past, I wanted to try something a little more gutsy. This is what happened. Cards like the Dancing Sword and Defense Ring are in their because the best way an opponent likes to deal with the hunting bow is getting out of range and then sending creatures in to harm me. Defenses prevent that. A great oh shit button to hit is Chain lightning. It does eat a lot of points and mana, but it really is worth buying a round or two, as the way this book handles, it really can add up the damage. The main damage pieces though are Grizzly and Bow, so use them to your advantage, and try not to use the bow until after you have attacked.

On a side note, I may try this book out with a fellela engine...


17
Strategy and Tactics / Headshots and Forestfires.
« on: November 14, 2013, 01:39:52 AM »
I'm going to tell you all something that may get me in trouble with the FBI. What you are about to hear is completely true. None of the events you are about to witness have been altered in any way, shape, or form.

Are you ready?

The World is a Vampire.


Oh, and Druid versus Necro is the most powerful set Arcane Wonders has released yet.

Which would you like to hear more about? I'm guessing the latter. In which case, ther are few things this article will strive to discuss today. The first is why this set in particular is so powerful, and what can be done to stop it. The second is more of a speculation into the deeper meta that will occur about 2-3 weeks after DvN is released. Let's get started.

So, what makes this set so good? Well, there are a few things, and most of them are on the Necrotic side of things, with a few head nods to the Druid. Let's look first at the Necromancer, and let's see just how strong he really is. The first thing we have to realize, before looking at any abilities, is that he channels 10. Historically, mages that channel 10 from the start tend to do better in games. This is not true all the time, of course, but we can't ignore this major advantage. As well, he is a creature oriented mage, so him channeling 10 means he is going to be casting creatures, and quick. The next ability we have to look at, and really the absolute strongest ability on the card, is the Plaguemaster Trait. And even then, there's really only two words we need to look at out of that entire paragraph that really matter to us: Poison Immunity. This means so many things. But most of all, this means direct damage that isn't fire is going to be impossible to stick on this mage. So things like Ghoul Rot are just not going to really be a threat anymore. As well, Plague master also states that you can pay a mana to do a damage if they have a poison condition. You know what that means? With Idol of Pestilence, which Necro is of course, immune to, a ghoul rot, and a tainted/rot/cripple condition, the Necromancer is now doing 4 damage a round to you. That will kill you quick. couple that with things like Force crush and Poison Gas Cloud, and you will see your life total disappear faster than Macaulay Culkin's career after he hit puberty. And I'm not even sure if that's an exaggeration. Seriously, what happened to Macaulay Culkin? Excuse me while I google him.


Strange, I could only find pictures of Michael Jackson when he was a chil- ohh. Let's just continue. And then there's Eternal Servant, which again, is a strong ability. The ability to give Piercing +1 at will FOR FREE is something you just can't ignore. And again, paying Half mana for a creature just adds to the Necro's already incredible ability to summon swarms and swarms of zombies. But, beyond the abilities of the Necromancer, what else makes him so strong?

Look up the codex definition for "Resilient". I'll wait. It's a seriously strong ability, isn't it? I mean, that makes every die roll a 66 percent chance to miss. Of course, these odds increase chance to hit the more dice you roll, but the singular percentage remains the same. And it is incredibly unforgiving. Granted, Bloodthirsty is double-edged sword, but it's really a difficult thing to take advantage of the opponent's bloodthristy. There has to be something more one can do to combat these zombies...

Not only that, we now have the only ability in the game that can cast from anywhere in the arena!!! Spreading vines really is as good as you think it is, it gives you the ability to have a lot of options from far away, giving way to a much more efficient turtling strategy than what was previously seen. It makes up for the terrible starting stats she has. You might even look at going ranged with her *wink*, due to her incredible ability to hinder EVERYTHING yo. Err thing.

As well, she has the incredible ability to heal, and heal a lot every single turn. Up to four, in fact. Five with Hand of Bim Shalla. But who's counting? I am, obviously, that question was rhetorical. So, her starting life total of ABSOLUTELY TERRIBLE really isn't that bad with all this healing. She's also got Acid Ball to really start to mess with opponents, including the Wizard, as corrode is the first real card that can really hurt the Wizard's main strength, which is Armor plus Shield. This is on top of most of her creatures being able to regen, and regen hard.  Where the Neccowafermancer has Resilient, the Druid has Regen. There seems to be a pattern here...

So, what is the best strategy to defeat these mages? Well, the plants have an inherent weakness that IS RIGHT ON THE CARD ITSELF. Flame +2 is a lot of free dice if you are the warlock, bringing your max from 9 to 11. Or 10 to 12 if you are playing Hand of Bim or Marked for Death. I digress. As well, this adds +2 to burn rolls, making your attacks basically able to make the opponent burn in a flashy ball of death. Like when a redneck throws a WD40 can in his burning trash pit. Short, fiery, with a "Did you see that un bubba?" at the end. The Necro and his bag of nastiness is a little harder to kill, as resilient really is that difficult. There are two solutions that come to mind. The first is just rolling as many dice as humanly possible. This can have effective results. This can also blind the opponent, so please don't just throw the dice. The second solution is a little more logical, theoretical. It is to use critical, unavoidable damage to defect these bastard zombies. This is further proven by looking at the rather low life total of the Zombies. Using cards like Demonhide Armor will do the job, as well as giving you a really badass look (Now you just need a Sons of Anarchy patch for the back!). We can also, like with the Druid, stack burns to kill these cats. In this case, I like AoEs a little more, as there will be a lot more of them, as well, you have a better chance to damage/burn at least 1-2 of them, as they are slow/lumbering, and will tend to group together in packs. Believe me man, I've studied the Zombie Apocalypse at least once, and I can tell you that they love to run in packs, as they are more effective in this way. As it applies to Mage Wars, it is no different. So, burn em man. Burn em all.

So, what will the meta be like once the set is released, based on this knowledge? Well, you will have two main builds about a week after the set comes out. The first will be a Necro Swarm build, as zombies are just too synergistic to say no to. The Druid will rock a more controlling build, relying on few bigs to get the job done, as well as massive life gain and small disruption. The natural deterrents you will see rise? the first, and arguable the most obvious, is a Priest/Priestess build, as they both get +2 to dark/Undead in almost every attack they perform. Making Blinding Flash a ton more playable. Either are playable, it just depends on if you care about the auto burn more, or the condition removal. The choice is yours. Seriously. The second build I think we will see rise to defeat the massive onslaught of Necro and Druid books is a fire heavy Warlock build. A curse build won't work as well, obviously, because of the Necro's tendency to ALWAYS BE IMMUNE TO POISON, so I think a Lord of Fire/Lash of Hellfire Build, or something with a few demons will rise up to conquer, as it does well against both the new mages. The third style of book we will see rise is the Mana Wizard with a Fire Kicker. Creatures are on the rise (literally)(pun kind of intended), and mana denial will be at the top of the list for anyone who wants to play the Wizard Competitively. You will see splashes of Incorporeal Creatures, as the Necro and Druid both have a bit of a weakness to them with a lack of Ethereal Attacks. You will also see things like multiple pieces of armor in all books, as the most popular method for ridding corrode markers will be to just replace the piece of armor entirely. This will be especially important for the Wizard, which is why you might begin to see Battle Forges popping back up again on the Wizard's side of things.

In any case, I hope this short sort of "strategy guide" Helps at least a few of you folks out there. Prepare for an onslaught, because that's exactly what this set is bringing. But don't worry, this isn't the end, it's only the beginning.

Now, get off the toilet and start playing!


Dude.

18
Strategy and Tactics / The Oneness
« on: September 18, 2013, 05:20:30 PM »
The Oneness.

Being one with your mage. Is this really so simple? I don’t think it is. Often, I have heard people describing a favorite mage of theirs to play. But why is it so much fun for them to play? Often, we as players, have a certain style of play we inherently try to commit to for each game we play. Maybe you like to go super aggressive. Or maybe you are the kind of guy that likes to sit back, destroy any threat that be posed to you, and then, when the path is reasonably clear, you march in and claim your win. Maybe you prefer a toolbox to work with, using your resources for versatile threats and answers to take down your opponent. Or maybe, maybe you just don’t know. Have you tried to play a build before that just didn’t feel “right” with you? Warlock feels that way with me. And no, it’s not because he summons demons and he breathes Hell, and stomps fire where he walks. It’s just that he doesn’t feel right for me to play. I feel like there is only one really good way to play with him, and his “toolbox” of curses just don’t grab me like they do some players. He is a strong mage, there is no doubt about that, but he just isn’t fun for me to play with. And because I don’t find him fun to play with, I will have a MUCH harder time winning with him than any other mage. I’m sure you feel the same way about a mage in the game. Maybe you don’t like the forcemaster, with her high chance deflect and tendency towards high cost enchantments and general “solo” style of play. Or maybe you just don’t like the beastmaster, for fear that his “rush” strategy is simply too weak to be viable. Maybe you don’t care for the Priestess, whose ability can be completely useless in some matchups. Whatever your reason, it’s completely normal. This article today is not about trying to make what you don’t like win. Mage Wars is game that is so versatile that you can make absolutely any build work if you work hard enough at it. But you have to enjoy what you are playing in order to really want to work at it. So, today, we are going to pick a mage that we know we will have fun with. I am going to outline all the strengths and weaknesses of each we have available, and then I want you to decide, if you haven’t already, which mage you will have the best connection with. Remember, simply picking a mage because you think he has the best chance of winning will not make you win. You have to know your mage, you have to have fun with your mage, in order to have the best chance of success. The builds I have done the best with are not the ones I saw online and built because they did well. The builds I have done the best with are the ones I have poured time into, tweaking, playtesting, losing, and learning with. They are the builds I have played the most and know like the back of my hand. They are the mages that I know the best. So, without further ado, let’s meet the mages we all know and love!

Core Set Mages

The Wizard

Here we have the Great and Fantastic Mr. Wizard! He specializes in the extremely diverse school of Arcane, in which most of the critical spells you will need for your deck will come from. Examples include Teleport, Dispel, and Darkfenne Hydra. He also has a very special second school he can be trained in. This is very special because no other mage in the game has this option. He can choose one of the 4 elemental schools to specialize in. These can be from Fire, Water, Earth, or Wind. So, what are the stats on the Wizard? He does have a rather low starting life total, of 32. He has the obligatory 0 armor, as well as having 10 channeling.

Choosing a fire Wizard is an interesting option, as it opens you up to great birth of Attack spells such as fireball, fireblast, and Ring of Fire. These spells are great not only because they have decent damage output (meaning they roll a good amount of dice for the mana you spend), but they have a fantastic effect roll of burn, which can stay on the enemy the entire game if the rolls are in your favor! But chances are they won’t be, so your best option with a Fire Wizard would be to have a consistent amount of burns on the opponent, usually 1-2. As well, there is another mage who does fire a lot better than the Fire Wizard, so it may be hard to match what they can do. You also have Battle Forge to work with, which is fantastic spawn point that lets you gain equipment as a free action, and nets you mana! You’ll want to include about eight pieces of equipment in your spellbook to take full advantage of Battle forge, but that’s not really a bad thing. There is another incredible weakness to the Fire Wizard, and that is that most builds today run one of Both Dragonscale Hauberk, and Elemental cloak, which, when combined, make it next to impossible to burn or even damage the mage, so you will need those dissolves if you hope to stand a chance in the competitive meta!

Next, we have the Earth Wizard! Instead of relying on Burns to do the job, Earth Wizards use brute force attack spells to get the job done. Please do note that you must have the Forcemaster vs. Warlord expansion in order to build the Earth Wizard, but I tell you it is worth it. Using spells like Hurl Boulder and Iron Golem, the Earth Wizard seeks to get you to about half life, and then finish the game quickly with a flurry of high attack spells. This is both a strength and a weakness, however. Poor rolls can cost you the game if you try to kill them before you have enough resources to recuperate. If you do decide to build the Earth Wizard, you will want to include a few high damage output creatures, as these will help you to up your chances of killing them when they get to that all important half life. Another inherent weakness of the Earth Wizard is it’s low ability to get past High armor creatures and Mages. Be sure to either have piercing or a plethora of Dissolves and dispels to get past the opponents armor. Or, have the ability to end the game quickly. Whichever you think you can do best!

Third, we have the Air Wizard. This Wizard also has some fantastic attack spells to choose from, such as Lightning bolt, or Chain lightning. But the difference between the Air Wizard and the other Wizards to build is the ability to Daze/stun. Whereas the other Wizard’s rely on damage to really control the game, the Air Wizard relies on stopping you from performing actions, by stunning you and to stop you from attacking by dazing you. This can be extremely powerful, but it is also dependent on the luck of the d12. You can mitigate that luck somewhat by sticking to attack spells with a higher chance to stun and daze, but the luck will always be there. This is also a far more controlling mage to play, as you don’t have many great ways of doing a lot of damage for a small amount of mana. You will need to have the patience to isolate and target threats throughout the game, waiting until the opponent is out of juice before you can strike. Again, you will want to be quick about it, as it takes a lot less time to stand back up than you think, but an elemental wand with Thunderbolt will do a great job of ending the game for you when the time comes. You also have access to Poison Gas Cloud, which can do insane amounts of damage when used properly. If you manage to stun the opponent in a zone with a Cloud, chances are they will be taking 2 points of direct damage! Using cards like Force Hold, Force Crush, and Tanglevine would be great ways of sticking your opponent in a zone and keeping him there. If you play the Air Wizard, you will be in for the long game, but if you can make there, your chances of winning skyrocket. Be wary of Elemental Cloak though, as it can ruin your day. Stormdrake Hide is a far less used piece of armor that can be brutal if played, but something you generally will not have to watch for.

Finally, we have the Water Wizard. Creating this kind of build will be tricky, as you are not really using water spells to get the job done. Mainly your water spells would be Surging Wave, and Dissolve. This build is for those of you that can really sit back and wait until the opponent runs out of options. You will be using a lot of the Arcane creatures, as they are extremely varied, and have great use in almost all cases. Such as Blue Gremlin with it’s fantastic fast/teleport ability will allow you to reach hard to get places to take out problem creatures before they strike, as well they have a defense, so they will be a little harder to kill than you think. For this reason, you may benefit from Gate to Voltari far more than any of the other mages, as you plan to make the game so extremely long, and you will be casting a fair amount of high casting cost creatures. These creatures may have the slow trait, but you have teleport, and most likely, a Mage Wand to go with it. There aren’t as many weaknesses to the Water Wizard, as their spellbook is not cluttered with out of school creatures or Attack spells, but they do suffer from hyper aggressive buddy build decks. For this reason, you are going to also want to pack Heals, as they will be all important in turning the game around for you. Please do note that this is not an easy book to build or play. If this play style is one you really want to try, I would suggest therapy. Only kidding! But I would seriously sit down and plan a book that has a heavy focus on mitigating damage and abusing the Gate to Voltari. And then practice. A lot. And then some more. And then more.

What are the abilities of the Wizard? Well, the first, and the most important, is his Voltaric shield. Remember how I said he only has 32 starting life? Well, he also has an inherent way to protect it, with the shield. For a mere 2 mana, he can prevent up to three damage on the first attack made on the mage. Only three damage, you say. What could possibly be so good about that? Well, it isn’t. Unless you include about 4 armor. Now, let’s say an attack is made on the Wizard with Volt shield on and 4 armor. You roll 4 normal damage, and 3 critical. The way the shield works and is worded, the 3 critical damage would be eaten by the shield! Leaving 4 normal damage to bounce off your armor. The reason this works is because it specifically says that the first damage that this mage would receive, which would be the critical damage that gets through the armor! The mage wouldn’t be damaged by the normal damage, as it is already eaten by the armor. This is a powerful ability that should not be over looked, and because of it, you will want at least 5-7 points of armor in your spellbook to really abuse this ability. This has the added benefit of giving you armor to block the next attacks made against you in the round, allowing you to take little to no damage on any given turn. That 32 life might as well be a million if you can’t damage it! This also makes first damage really strong and worth noting. Burns and poison damage would be a great way to get through to the wizard.

The Second ability the Wizard has is Arcane Zap. For one mana, you can cast a quick attack for 3 dice at a 0-1 range. It is also Ethereal. Yes, it can be boosted by Hawkeye.  Why is this so good? Normally, each other mage cannot use his quickcast marker to make a melee attack. The Wizard can, for one mana. Pesky flyers? Zap. Those incorporeal creatures getting the best of you? Not with Arcane Zap. Notice that block just sitting there? Zap. It is a powerful ability that again, should not be taken for granted.

Now, before we move onto the next mage, I want to talk about a hugely important strategy the Wizard can possess. That strategy is mana denial. With cards like Essence Drain, Suppression Cloak, and Mordok’s Obelisk, you make it incredibly hard for the opponent to hit you… with anything! This, in addition to the Volt shield, will make it almost impossible for the opponent to hit you. It is incredibly weak to the solo mage, though, so I wouldn’t recommend an entire spellbook dedicated to mana denial, as it’s usually great as a package you can bring in if you really need it. This strategy, again, is not an easy one to play, so be prepared to really practice it if you hope to win with it.

The Priestess

Welcome to the first and only woman of the base set, the devastating Priestess. Her base stats are the same as the Wizard with a lower 32 life, 10 channel, and 0 armor. As one might guess, she specializes in Holy school, with an opposite to Dark magic. This isn’t to say she can’t use cards from the dark school, only that they cost triple, and this should be remembered. Due to her trained school, she will also be using a more controlling strategy, focusing on using hard hitting knights, soldiers, and Angels to do damage while she sits back and heals herself, and her allies. But, we will talk more about that when we get to her abilities.

Her first ability is a powerful one, but it is hard to use properly. The first time each round when she casts a holy incantation or reveals a holy enchantment, she gains one life. This is similar to the volt shield in that she has an inherent way to protect herself, but unlike the volt shield, you will need to include a mass of Holy incantations and enchantments to really make good effect of this ability. It is a strong ability, but works poorly against decks that hope to spike a lot of damage quickly. Be prepared to have a heal on hand almost all the time, preferably on a mage wand, to make full use of this Divine Reward.

Her second ability is a little more universal, and it’s: For a quick action, she may remove a condition marker by paying it’s removal cost from a friendly creature, or for a full action, may remove as many condition markers as she wants, by paying their removal cost. This, again, is a strong, but hard to use ability, and is really best used when she casts creatures that are going to stay on the battlefield for a long time, so she can use her mana for her abilities rather than relying on damage output.

This mage, above all others, is perfect as a turtling play style. She has a lot stronger ways to stun and daze the opponent, but the attack spells she uses for this ability are rather weak, only rolling two dice. This does not mean they are bad, only that are utility attack spells, rather than damage ones. She also has some great temples to work with, in Temple of Light, and Hand of Bim Shalla. She can also use Temple of the Dawnbreaker, if you want to put things like Force Orb, or Reflex boots on her. With this mage, more than almost any other, you will want to increase her channeling, so that you are able to make full use of her abilities during the game. As well, her angels are a whopping 21 mana a piece, so you will have to have a good base channeling in order to hope to cast an angel and not be totally wiped clean of a mana supply.

There is a second build you can try with the Priestess, and it is a lot more reliant on a combination of two cards: Divine intervention and Necropian Vampiress. The way the combo works is, turn one, you will cast the Vampiress for 16 mana, and then quickcast Divine Intervention for 2 on the Vampiress you just cast. Turn 2, you will reveal Divine intervention for 10, and teleport her to the same zone as the mage. If you do decide to do this, you should want to either fully support your 26 mana decision, or ignore it completely. There are upsides to both. If you go with the former, cards like sleep, and a daze/stun lock will be harder to use on the Vampiress, because you have the ability to remove condition markers as a quickcast. You can also make use of your heals and Holy enchantments to up your life while keeping your vampires alive. The latter, however, allows you to set up a long game strategy while your opponent is tied up in Vampiress-ness?  This is beneficial to you because it allows you to leg up on the building of your temples and creatures, while your opponent must spend time and resources to take out your Vampiress.  But, if they are able to take her out quickly, or turn her to stone, or force hold, you are in a world of trouble, so do not take this method lightly, you have to be prepared to help your Vampiress if she absolutely needs it.



19
Alternative Play / New Solo/Co-op variant
« on: August 31, 2013, 11:42:41 PM »
Solo/Co-operative rules for Mage Wars
Plays 1-4 mages.
The Dude.

Objective: To create a difficult, fun, and replayable variation on the base Mage Wars game by constructing a tough A.I opponent. I want to keep the game as close to playing an opponent as possible, while giving the player as little upkeep as possible.

Gameplay Objective: To defeat the enemy by taking him to zero life. Players lose if they all take damage equal to their life, or if they cannot place an action marker on the AI’s creature, then they also lose. If the AI deck ever runs out, they also lose.

Set up:

Your player book will be the same, with the exact same rules for deckbuilding as normal. The opponent you will be playing is the Warlock. Instead of placing and building a spellbook for him, you are going to build a deck. Here is the contents of the AI deck:

2 Goblin Bomber
3 Skeletal Sentry
6 Firebrand Imp
4 Goblin Grunt
2 Stonegaze Basilisk
2 Darkpact Slayer
1 Necropian Vampiress
1 Whirling Spirit
2 Lash of Hellfire
1 Demonhide Armor
1 Leather Boots
1 Gauntlets of Strength
1 Elemental Cloak
1 Falcon Precision
1 Regrowth
2 Bear Strength
2 Rhino Hide
2 Cobra Reflexes
1 Enfeeble
1 Ghoul Rot
2 Explode
2 Dispel

You will shuffle these cards facedown, until they are thoroughly mixed. Place this facedown deck face down on the table. This will begin to form the AI player area. Above this, remove the following cards from the game box:

1 Fireblast
2 Fireball
1 Firestorm

You will place these face up in a row above the AI deck in the following order:

Fireblast    Fireball    Fireball    Firestorm

Place a quickcast marker on the “fireblast” card. This will represent what spell the Warlock will cast at the beginning of each round.
Below the AI deck, place the red action markers in a pile. These will represent “mana” that the AI player will use to cast cards from the AI deck.

Next to the mana markers, place a number of Mage Wars red 6ds (mana dice) equal to the number of  players in the game plus one. So, if there is one player in the game, you will place 2 dice out. With 2-3 players, you will add 3 and 4 dice, respectively. On a sheet of paper, write down a life total that the Warlock will start with

For one player:
Easy: 20 life
Medium: 30 life
Hard: 40 Life

For two players:
Easy: 40 Life
Medium: 50 life
Hard: 60 life

For Three Players:
Easy: 60 Life
Medium: 70 Life
Hard: 80 life

For four players:
Easy: 70 Life
Medium: 80 Life
Hard: 90 life.

Record damage by crossing out the starting number, subtracting the amount of damage taken, and recording the difference.

Set out the game board. Place the “Warlock” mage card in one corner that has the gate. In the opposing corner (the other gate corner), place the player mage cards. Set up the player mage cards as normal, but on the Warlock AI card, place a single action marker of a different color than the mana markers face up.  Place the remaining action markers off to one side. If there is ever a point in which you need to place an action marker on an AI’s creature and can’t, you lose the game.


Gameplay:

At the beginning of the game, to complete set up, place a number of mana tokens equal to the number of players plus one on the left side of the AI deck. Reveal from the top of the player deck cards equal to the number of players plus 3. Place these cards face up in a row on the right side of the AI deck.

The AI will take his planning phase right before players their planning phase. His planning phase consists of the following:

Quickcast attack spell – Move the quickcast marker to the right one card (except the first round of the game). The Warlock then casts this spell, ignoring range and mana costs, on the player with initiative. If the cast spell is Firestorm, it instead is cast on every creature in that player’s zone (including the AIs). If the quickcast marker cannot be moved to the right anymore at the beginning of the round, do the following:

Roll the mana dice. Each player takes the amount shown on those dice. This is direct, unavoidable damage.

Add one red Mage Wars die to the mana dice. So, if a player rolled 2 mana dice during the first four rounds, he would then roll 3 for the next four rounds.

Move the quickcast marker from the “Firestorm” card back to the Flameblast card. This attack is then performed on the first player.

AI casting- Roll the mana dice. You will then add this many mana markers to the left of the AI deck. This is called the “mana pool”. You will then do the following:

1.   Look to see if there are revealed cards equal to the number of players plus 3. If not, reveal and add these cards to the row to the right of the player AI deck. This is known as the “AI hand”.

2.   Count up the mana markers in the mana pool.

3.   Examine the AI hand. You will cast as many cards as you can from the AI hand, following these guidelines:

a.   Start by casting the card with the highest level that can be cast. If there is a tie, choose the card with the higher mana cost. If there is still a tie, the player(s) may decide which card to cast. In order to cast a card, the player will first remove the number of mana markers in the mana pool equal to the card’s level. For example, if you were going to cast a level 4 creature, you would remove 4 mana markers from the mana pool, returning them to the pile below the AI deck. You would then take an action marker, place it face down on that creature, placing that creature in the same zone as the AI’s mage card.

b.   If a card cannot be cast due to not having a target, leave that card in the AI’s hand, and move on to the next castable card. If the AI’s hand is ever full of uncastable cards, pick up the AI’s hand and place it off to one side in the discard pile. If the AI’s deck ever runs out, the players lose the game.

c.   If the card is an incantation, it is cast, ignoring range, on the player with initiative by removing a number of mana markers equal to that spell’s level.  If that player has no targets for the incantation, move to the next player in a clockwise formation until a player with a legal target is found. If there are no legal targets, that card is left in the AI’s hand.

d.   If the card is an enchantment that has a positive effect (all nature enchantments), they are cast on the AI’s mage card by removing a number of mana markers equal to the level of the enchantment. Enchantments are always cast face up, ignoring any remaining costs on the enchantment (AI does not pay Reveal enchantment costs). If the AI already has that enchantment on him, leave the second copy in the AI hand. If the enchantment is negative (all dark enchantments), it is cast on the player with initiative. If that player already has an enchantment with the same name on him, the enchantment in question is then cast on the next player in clockwise rotation to the player initiative.

e.   If the card is a creature, pay for it by removing a number of mana markers equal to that creatures level. Then place the creature in the same zone as the AI’s mage card and place an action marker of the AI’s color on that creature, face down.

f.   If there are cards with a level higher than the remaining mana markers or if the remaining cards cannot be cast with a legal target, leave these cards in the AI’s hand and continue with player planning.

Action stage:

The action stage goes as follows:

1.   The player with initiative with act first with an action of his choice.

2.   The AI will take one action, first with creatures, and if no creatures that the AI controls have actions remaining, then the AI himself moves.

3.   The player to the right, in clockwise order, takes an action.

4.   AI action

5.   Continue until all actions are complete.

The AI mage card will move towards the mage with the highest amount of Life remaining. If there is a tie, he will move to which mage is closer. If there is still a tie, players may decide to which mage he moves to. The AI will attack whenever possible, so that if he is in the same zone as a mage, and that mage has a lower life total than the remaining mages, he will continue to attack that mage, as it is closest target. The AI mage will only attack mages in this fashion, though, so he does ignore all creatures, unless a creature has taken the guard action. The AI also follows all rules as far as hindering, fast, and slow go.
The AI creatures, on the other hand, will always move toward the target with the lowest life remaining. If there is a tie, they move towards the closest target. If there is still a tie,  players may decide which they move towards and attack. AI creatures also want to attack as often as possible, but they will attack any target. For example, if a Mage with 20 life is in the same zone as them, and a mana crystal with 3 life is in the zone next to them, they will attack the mage instead of moving and attacking the crystal. The AI creatures also follow all rules as far as hindering, fast, and slow go.

If there is a creature with a ranged attack activating, that creature will take move actions until an enemy target is reached (no matter the life remaining). They will then stay there until they cannot  may a ranged attack any longer from that position.

The vampires is always assumed to have flying during its activation.

The half time show:

When the AI has taken damage equal to half of its life total, Pick up the AI mage card and place it back in its starting zone (the zone the AI was placed in during setup). Then, take all the enemy creatures on the board, and place them in the zone that the AI was in before he was moved to the starting zone. This happens AS SOON as the AI has taken half damage, and the turn is continued as normal.

If the players manage to destroy the AI’s Life total, they have won! If they all die, or if the action markers of the AI run out, or if the AI deck runs out, then the players lose the game.


20
Spellbook Design and Construction / The Highly Calibrated Wizard
« on: August 31, 2013, 01:18:26 AM »
The Highly Calibrated Wizard

When I first started playing Mage Wars, I instantly gravitated to the Wizard. Why? Not because I had heard it was the best, not because of the abilities. I went with the wizard because I had heard that it was the hardest to play. That’s the only reason. I love a thought provoking challenge, and the Wizard happened to be it. So, I tried out the pre-constructed books. And he was difficult, but not terribly so. As well, I didn’t much care for the mana denial aspect that was thrown in. So, I built my own book. And how did it do?

Terrible. This book was just bad. Why? Because I tried to play aggressive solo Fire Wizard. I thought that not having to cast creatures and just kiting was enough to win the game. It was not. Turns out creatures are kind of a good thing… I was finally able to make him work, but it was when I included creatures that the book became halfway decent. And then Forcemaster vs. Warlord came out and dropped a huge boulder on everyone’s head.

I didn’t even bother with the Forcemaster, or the Warlord. I just wanted to build a Stone Wizard. I had seen these awesome attack spells and I figured that they would go great in the wizard. As well, you have these awesome Iron golems that can just do so much work and are nigh impossible to kill. So the book started out much more controlling. It won, and it did a great job at winning, but it lost to more aggressive decks. How could I fix that? Well, I didn’t, for a long time. And then I came across a “Pop sniper” strategy, which was basically to drop an Archer’s Watchtower followed by a Grimson Deadeye, Sniper and smash faces. Many faces. This actually is the shell of the book, and what makes it work so well. So, without further ado, I’m going to list the book and then go through the different strategies this book can provide.

4 Hurl Boulder (8)
1 Hail of Stone (2)
1 Arc Lightning (2)
2 Iron Golem (6)
1 Grimson Deadeye, Sniper (8)
1 Steelclaw Grizzly (8)
1 Sunfire Amulet (4)
1 Elemental Cloak (1)
1 Mage Wand (2)
1 Dragonscale Hauberk (2)
1 Regrowth Belt (2)
1 Leather Boots (1)
1 Leather Gloves (1)
1 Battle Forge (4)
1 Wall of Steel (2)
1 Wizard’s Tower (2)
2 Mana Crystal (2)
1 Wall of Thorns (1)
1 Archer’s Watchtower (2)
3 Tanglevine (6)
1 Block (2)
2 Jinx (2)
1 Teleport Trap (1)
2 Nullify (2)
1 Turn to Stone (3)
1 Hawkeye (2)
1 Eagle Wings (4)
1 Magebane (2)
1 Ghoul Rot (4)
1 Rouse the Beast (2)
2 Sniper Shot (2)
2 Dissolve (4)
1 Purge Magic (3)
2 Dispel (2)
2 Charge (4)
2 Seeking Dispel (2)
1 Force Push (2)
2 Battle Fury (4)
4 Teleport (8)

This is all for a total of 120 points. Now, how does the book work? It may seem like just a bunch of random spells thrown together with little to no thought behind them, but in reality, there is a very subtle cohesiveness that can only be found once we dig deeper than the surface. Let’s start with the beginning, shall we?

The Opener:
Every single game, under almost every single circumstance, your first two rounds are going to be the same. You are going to sprint to the near center with your full action, and then quickcast Archer’s Watchtower for 4 mana. For those of you who may not know what “Near center” means, look at a Mage Wars board. Look at where your starting corner is. Now, go up one zone. After that, go to the left one zone. Congrats! You’ve made it to the Near Center. It’s called this because there is no exact “center” of the board, only two that go “near” the center.

In any case, during the second round, you are going to cast Grimson Deadeye followed by a rouse the Beast for 19 mana. This means you can shoot this round. But what does this do? There are many builds today that like to “turtle”, that is, to stay in their corner and build up their resources until a point in which they can unleash a larger attack without having to worry about resource depletion. A lot of wizard builds these days depend on this turtling method. By starting aggressive during the second round, you are forcing them to react. To either come out of their shell, or die. Because with Watchtower, you are rolling 5 dice in their starting corner.

Now, as soon as this round is over, one of two things is going to happen:

1.   They are going to try and control/destroy your Sniper.

2.   They are going to go hyper aggressive on you.

If one happens, there’s a few different things you can do, depending on where they are attacking from. If they try to attack you from the other side of the Near center, Wall of Steel. Due to the Watchtower giving the Sniper the “Indirect” ability, you can now smash face with a wall up. If they start attacking from the side instead of the near center, I tanglevine em. I might save the vine for when you have initiative next turn, in order to Jinx them, but that is up to you. If they ever happen to get in the same zone as you, you are in a fantastic position to Force Push Wall of thorns them, which then lets you shoot with the sniper. Oh the synergies!

If they go hyper aggressive on me, then I like to start to put them on the back foot by using the next turn to drop a mana crystal and a hawkeye on myself. This is to bluff that I’m on the back foot myself and that I have turned to reacting (poorly, I might add, like reacting with a mana crystal is a good move!). The next turn I can then double hurl boulder for 16 dice of damage, followed by a Grimson shot for either 5/6/7 damage. If I do this for two turns in a row followed by a force push, wall of thorns, they are dead, as that’s an average of 52 damage. Over the span of three rounds.

So what are the other cards for then? Well, there will be times when your opponent does something more aggressive than you. I know, I know. Or they will kill your sniper in one shot with a boulder. Or some other craziness. When that happens, I incorporate the Battle forge Iron Bear control strategy. You can also use this as your opener if you want. Dropping a battle forge in the adjacent zone to your sniper, and then dropping a crystal. Next turn, I cast Sunfire with the forge, turning on my shield, and casting a second crystal. This sets you up in a monster control position, and from then on it’s only a matter of casting and using your golems with charge and tele to smash face. You also have Grizzly to work with, who is an effective, and crazy damage dealer. If you find that they can’t deal with flying very well, grizzly+wings is the way to go.

I guess I want to end by saying that this book over its various iterations has won over 40 games against skilled, experienced, and apt opponents. The book punishes the opponent for making mistakes, but be warned, as can also be unforgiving in your doings as well. This book, more than any other I have seen, commands that you think a few rounds ahead, and to really think about what your opponent is doing. I highly encourage you to try this book out and see what it can do!



Dude

21
Strategy and Tactics / Dungeon Twister: A Lesson in Bluffing
« on: August 27, 2013, 01:32:58 AM »
How to not Bluff

As many of you many know, I was fortunate enough to attend Gencon to work for the incredible company Arcane Wonders which you all may or may not heard of. They are kind of a big deal. While there, I happened across a game I had heard a lot about since my first adventures into board game, but I had not played or purchased. That game was Dungeon Twister. So, on my way to purchase Takenoko to try and strong arm m'lady into board gaming through the subtly of bamboo, pastels, and pandas, I came across Dungeon Twister 2: Prison. They couldn't tell me a price, so I closed my eyes and pulled the trigger, playing Russian Roulette with what normal people call a "budget" and bought the game. I can tell you that I have never been more disappointed to open sixty dollars of game in my life. I mean you get 16 minis, unpainted and poorly molded, a little more than 80 cards, most of which are for solo play, about 60 small cardboard tokens. And 8 tile rooms. It makes you kind of appreciate the sixty dollar price point of Mage Wars a little bit more, dig?

But, as I started reading the rules, I realized... there's a game here! And it's not a bad one, at all! For those of you who have never heard of Dungeon Twister before, the premise is that you have to score 5-6 victory points before the opponent does in order to win the game. You can do that in one of two ways: Either by killing the opponents characters, or by "escaping" the maze that is created by the 5x5 grid tiles. This is done through the allocation of Action points that you will get so many of per turn, depending on the card you play. For combat, every character has a base strength stat that you will add to with a "combat card" that is discarded after use, meaning your combat cards dwindle after a time.

You've read this far, and nothing about Mage Wars so far? I should be shot. But I promise, I'm getting there, I promise. At first glance, just like "Go", there seems to be nothing about this game that compares to Mage Wars at all. I mean, sure, you are moving dudes around and attacking, but that's about it. Right? Right guys??! Wrong. You know how I said comparing Chess to Mage Wars was kind of inaccurate in my Go Study? Well, Dungeon Twister is the Chess of Ameritrash. But, Dungeon Twister does have one very, very important lesson to teach us.

Before I go any further, let me explain the basics of combat in Dungeon Twister:

Your dudes all have a base strength. This can range from 1 to 5. To this, you can add a combat card. This can be a +0 added all the way up to a +6. This is where the "bluffing" comes in in Dungeon Twister. If you have a strength 2 guy and your opponent has a strength 3 guy, is he going to play that +6 to automatically beat you (as your +6 would only make it strength 8, his +6 would make it strength 9), or is he banking that you will plan for that and just play your +0 combat card, so you don't have to lost a good card just to lose?

It is this line of thought that we will expand upon today and relate back to Mage Wars. In the situation, what is the only surefire way to win combat for the 3 strength fellow? I'll give you a second.


Ready? Yes! It's playing the +6 card. Although your opponent may account for this by playing their +0 card, the object of the game is to score victory points, and killing opponent's characters is one of the ways to do that .  You don't want to put something to chance that you don't have to. As well, as you are guaranteeing that you will win combat, you might be wasting an opponents combat card. It's a win win for you. So why don't players do that more often? It's because players are greedy. If they can justify not playing their best card, they won't. And they will find any reason not to. ANY. Why spend resources that you can save? Isn't it inefficient to overextend so much for just one combat? Well, the true answer is that is inefficient to spend multiple lesser resources to overcome an obstacle that one larger resource could have handled.

So, how do we get greedy in Mage Wars? In many, many, many ways. Mostly we ignore what enchantments do. As a general rule of thumb (or rule of wrist):

If there is a facedown enchantment on the target, it is whatever I don't want it to be. Murphy's Mage War Law, I guess.

How do I handle that? Well, there are a few different ways you can handle that. The most obvious is Seeking Dispel. Cheap, easy, and does the job. There's more you can do, though. Making your attack unavoidable to get rid of that block, or attacking with a chump.

There is much more than just "Is that a block" though. For example, if I tanglevine you now, what are the chances that you will have a Teleport next turn? If you follow my rule, you should be saying 100 percent of time. Have an answer! Anything that you do, your opponent will probably have an answer for, and you need to account for that. The smartest play is the play that has accounted all possibilities and plays to the one with the greatest chance of success with the least path of resistance through the opponents arsenal of tricks. When using Murphy's Law in Mage Wars, don't just take into account that something bad will happen. Plan so that there is little to nothing that can go wrong.

A lot of this may seem obvious to you, and a lot of it probably is. But, as players, we are often far too greedy in our assumptions of strength and cleverness of our opponent. You cannot just blindly do whatever you want without fear of what the opponent is going to do. You have to realize that they are thinking, intelligent beings who have put just as much thought into the game as you have. This is why you have to account for everything your opponent could be doing to disrupt your strategy, because chances are, they are.

What does always playing your surefire win teach us? That the best bluff is not to bluff. Why your opponent is agonizing in agony and redundancy over whether you played your best card or your worst, you can set there in apparent bliss, getting a slight reprieve from the more difficult decisions you'll have to make. Often, players will bluff when they don't need to at all. Why waste your time bluffing when you can just have the actual thing? I'm not going to play a decoy on myself if I can just play a block or a null, unless I want to secretly hold up two more mana.

So when should you actually bluff? I think the only time you should actually bluff what you are doing to your opponent is when you are so far behind that only risk/reward can save you. And even then, look for something better to help your position before attempting to bluff. As well, you have to time your bluffs just right so that they will either stop the opponent from what they were doing, or screw the opponent completely. Often a better play is to play around the opponent's play completely, either through clever positioning of your mage, your creatures, your conjurations, or your spells, you shouldn't have to bluff in any given situation.

This small, but important lesson, is one that Dungeon Twister has drilled into me, and I hope it came across clear enough for you people! (Yes I said you people, and I meant every word) c: Learning how to not bluff and to not take risks on opponents play is vital to winning and I think is something every player should learn at one point or another. If you have any questions, or comments, feel free!

As always,

Dude.

22
Strategy and Tactics / the Art of Mage Wars: Lesson 1
« on: July 25, 2013, 03:52:03 AM »
Chapter 1, Lesson 1:

We all play a lot of games, and we may even win a lot of games, but why? Coming from a gamer’s standpoint, often I will pick up a difficult game and INSTANTLY start to lose. I understand the rules, the mechanics, and I even know some of the basic strategies, but what I don’t know is how to play those strategies to success. In game design, these are called the dynamics of game play, which is to say knowing when and how to implement the strategies you have seen so many other players successfully tackle. It wasn’t until I read a fascinating book The Art of War, that I started to understand the philosophies behind deeper strategies and tactics. Now, you may be asking yourself  “What does a book written by a guy named after a flaming ball of gas from centuries ago have to do with gaming, and more specifically, Mage Wars?” And that is a valid question.

The answer, like so many other answers books have to offer us, is between the lines.  He talks a lot about the strategies and tactics most successful in war.  It’s when we understand that war, simply defined, is direct conflict, that we start to realize why so many successful businessmen have used Sun Tzu’s seminal work not for violence, but for victory. And it’s applying these strategies to Mage Wars that we can really begin to see just how deep a game can go. It’s not simply about why we make a move, or why we plan a card, but it’s about why this move is better than any other move that you could make, or why picking this set of cards is better than any other set of cards in your spell book.

In this series of articles, I am going to go through Sun Tzu’s book, from cover to cover, and explain the theory as it applies to Mage Wars. This will be a journey for your eyes and my hands as we work to understand just how to be the most dominating mage in the game. So, with out further ado, let’s tackle our first lesson together.

The Five Factors of the Arena:

 Sun Tzu starts off by discussing the difference between a victorious general, and a defeated general. He explains that there are five factors every general must understand and follow if he hopes to effectively determine the conditions obtaining the battlefield. These five factors are:

Moral Law- Causes the people to be in complete accord with their ruler, so that they will follow him regardless of their lives, undismayed by any danger.
Heaven- Signifies night and day, cold and heat, times and seasons.
Earth- Comprises distances, great and small; danger and security; open ground and narrow passes; the chances of life and death.
Commander- Stands for the virtues of wisdom, sincerity, benevolence, courage, and strictness.
Method and Discipline- are to be understood by the marshaling of the army in its proper subdivisions, the graduations of rank among the officer, the maintenance of roads by which supplies may reach the army, and the control of military expenditure.
Now, don’t go running off yet! This may seem like a mass jumble of words that could not possibly be connected with any gaming , much less Mage Wars. But, in fact, these five factors are something we already subconsciously do every time we play! For example, do you look at the opponent’s health and mana totals? Do you look for the nearest path of least resistance to the opponent’s mage? These are all important realizations that the five factors try and get us to think about in game. Let us delve deeper into what these factors mean as it pertains to Mage Warring.

The Moral Law

Creatures seem like a huge investment. I mean, you have to waste a turn, pay a lot of mana, and they don’t even get to attack when you cast them! But why are they so useful?  The moral law simply means that you need creatures, and they will die. It is through their death that you will win the game. We need our creatures to die. I mean, think about it. On a basic level, every attack that the opponent is using on a creature is one less attack you have to deal with. It is life you are not losing. Every time a creature attacks the opposing mage, it is one less attack that you have to waste an action on. Every enchantment and incantation they cast on this creature, every trick they employ is something not happening to you, the mage. It is through this brutal beat down of your creatures that you will live. This is the Moral Law.

So how do get our opponent to attack our creatures? The answer is simple. Never cast a creature you cannot make an immediate threat against the opponent with. This is why with swarm strategies I will often cast a fatty first in order to give the opponent something to deal with while I cast smaller creatures. I always want to make my opponent choose between getting extremely hurt in order to attack me, or to try and take out the creature. This decision will end in my creatures downfall, but that is okay, because it is through that death that I have gained enough tempo to swing the game in my favor.

The reverse side of this is not to support your creatures too much. You want to support them just enough to make them a threat, but not too much that you are losing sight of the main goal, which is killing the mage. Let your creatures die. I promise you it will be worth it.

Heaven

 When I first started playing Mage Wars, one of the most hated parts for me was the opening few moves of the game. I never knew what my opponent was going to do, and I always felt like my opening moves were just worse compared to his. But, as I learned the game, it’s cards, and it’s inherent opening strategies, I began to build reactively to what the opponent was doing. Heaven is simply what overall strategy the opponent is building to, as well as what obstacles he creates in order to for you to stop his strategy. For example, Temple of Light is an obstacle to defend against the opponent’s creatures and attacks.

This is where study and play of the game will help the most. Knowing what the opponent is going to open with, as well as the strategy he is going to implement is vital to the success of your own. If you can play around his strategy, you can more efficiently put your strategy into action. So study! The opponent sprints to Near Center of the board, what is his strategy? The opponent casts Mana Crystal and Battleforge, what is his strategy? Know what you are going up against. Think of the opponent’s strategy like rain on the battlefield. You have to know what to do when it rains, because if you don’t and your army suffers because of  it, you have lost before have even begun.


Earth

 I can’t tell you the number of times I have tried to cast dissolve and realized I was too far away.  Or when someone has tried to attack me with a flameblast, only to realize that they were too far away. Or even when the opponent has forgotten that hindered does not care if you are fast. Earth is the realization that you are within a close proximity to the mage. You need to know how close you need to get, how fast you need to get there, and the most efficient way to get there without your opponent getting to you first.

This is important for any style of play, be it control, swarm, or aggro, as you always need to know your clearest line to and from the enemy. Know the range of your spells so that you not to get closer than needed, and so you can also not lose tempo by incorrectly casting a spell that would otherwise completely change the game. It is incredibly important for you to know your best lines of attack and your best  paths to kite, as it gives you the ability to plan much further in advance of the opponent. If I know that I am going to be here next round, and that my opponent will most likely be doing (Heaven), then I will know exactly what I have to do in order to keep damaging the mage while keeping tempo.

Commander

 You are the mage. It is you, alone, that will decide your fate in the arena. Commander is this realization. You have to do whatever it takes to win the game. No, I don’t mean cheating, or some other nefarious method of getting ahead. What I am talking about is that when it comes down to it, your creatures will die. Your conjurations will fall. You need to know that it is you that will win the battle for you. You can’t depend on lucky die rolls or enchantments. You will have to outthink your opponent with your wits alone.  As well, you should always realize how much life you and the opponent has left. This is an important resource that you can expend to get ahead.

But how does this relate to the factors in any way? Well, the factors are an examination of the Battlefield. Are you not apart of the battlefield? You and your opponent both are the largest contributors to the battlefield, in fact. You need to know your spellbook inside and out. You need to be able to know what to any situation you are put it. Know that it is you that will win you the game, but it is also you that will lose it.

The other commander, the opponent, needs to be assessed as well. What mage is he playing? Is he a strong opponent? As you play, you will notice certain ticks the opponent makes, such as always placing a facedown enchantment under himself when he knows he’s about to be attacked, or attacking every creature he comes across. He may try to kite every single attack you try and make. Understand his thought process. If you do this, you can make logical assumptions as to what he is going to do next. Be one with the opponent. It is your only chance at true victory.

Method and discipline

Alas, we come to the final factor. This one is rather simple, actually. Know how much mana you have. That’s it. But it’s not that simple. You need to also know how much mana you will spend on any given turn. Your mana is not unlimited. Don’t use it for unnecessary reasons. It is for this reason that you need to plan out well in advance what you are going to cast in any given turn. You never want to be in a position in which you cannot pay the nullify cost, or you can’t teleport as far as you need to, or cast that game ending spell, or summon a threat to the board. Once you have figured out what you are going to do, stick to that plan as much as you can. Sure, you may have to adjust for what the opponent is doing, but have an outline. As well, I always try and save my mana in order to build to something, such as a Drain Soul. It’s expensive cost will give me a structure, so that I am not spending my mana needlessly, as well, it gives me something to end the game with.

Your opponent should always be afraid of something you can do. Always make sure you have enough mana to threaten what your opponent may think you have. Often, I will hold off casting a spell in order to have five mana in the pool to bait my opponent into thinking I have a Reverse Attack on me. By giving structure to your mana supply, you can more effectively and efficiently save mana, while playing yet more mind games with the opponent.

These five factors? They are only the first page of the Art of War. These five factors as so important to winning this game, I cannot stress enough. So, let’s try an exercise. The next game of Mage Wars you play, I want to you to make a small list of these factors. During the first round of the game, after the Action Stage, apply these factors to your current board state. Repeat after the second round. This may lead to a longer game, but I think it will be interesting for both you and I to learn all we can about these five factors, as this is the foundation the Art of War builds on. Feel free to email me at Padawanofthegames@gmail.com with your findings. Next week, we are going to cover seven considerations you can use to divine victory or defeat at any time. Enjoy my friends, and welcome to the Art of Mage Wars.

Dude.

23
Strategy and Tactics / Starving the opponent.
« on: July 18, 2013, 02:25:53 AM »
Starving the Opponent and Other Concepts of Control.


It’s about that time for another article, folks. I don’t think I have seen a good article posted on here in a while, and it seems I have seen an abundance of aggressive builds. Is this what Mage Wars has degenerated to? A bunch of overly powerful things to do, with your only hope of winning is to either do something more broken, or perfectly time your reactions to counter the opponents? I don’t believe so. The easiest way to win a game of Mage Wars is to kill an opponent before he has time to react. This was, and is the norm. But what if everyone is doing the same thing? What if you were up against nothing but hyper aggressive/combo builds that relied on nothing but doing 15 dice of damage a turn? The game would break down into who has the better die rolls. I recently went and looked on the BGG page at Mage Wars “game weight”. This term simply means how hard, or simple, this game is to grasp.  To kind of put this into perspective, King of Tokyo has a weight of 1.5. It’s not too hard to learn, and it is very luck based. Seasons has a weight of 2.7. It is much tougher to learn, as well as there being a high amount of strategy involved with that game. So what does Mage Wars have? A 3.5. This means that this is a difficult, very high strategic and tactics based game. So it doesn’t make sense that this game should degenerate into who has the better combo, or who has the better die rolls. There has to be something more than that. And there is.

There is a dark, dusty, cobweb filled corner in the depths of Mage Wars strategy. It has been talked about little, and has been given almost no love. What am I speaking about (hint: look at the title)? Control, of course. What I aim to do today is to show new players and old players alike how beneficial running a control build can be. Now, before we get into strategy, I want to address the first thought that came into your mind. “But I don’t want to play for 2-3 hours on one game!”. Control does not mean slow. Nor does control mean weak. Let us try and define control as an archetype before we digress further. Webster states that control is to exercise constraint over: dominate; command. A second definition says that control is to hold in check; curb. To put this into simplified in game terms, to control is to hold dominance over a certain resource. Be it card advantage, mana, action advantage, any game that a player can exert control over an opponent has an abundance of resources.

So, why has that not been done successfully yet? There are many Mage Wars builds, millions of spellbook combinations, so why have we not seen a powerful control build? We have. Aggressive builds can be considered control as they use damage output to control you. They depend on good dice rolls, and lots of attacks, to stop you from acting, and to get to you to start reacting. But there is a problem here. There is a high risk reward output here, as you can roll terribly and just lose the game because of luck. The best control builds depend not on luck, but on the intentions of your opponent. This is what I set out to create. A build that depended not on only luck to win, but on skill as well. In order to do this, there are a few things we have to realize.

First, we need to realize that we will be damaged, even maimed, before we can take control. If any of you are familiar with Magic the Gathering strategy, you will know that often control decks will go down to 3-7 life before they can exhibit enough control to win the game. We have to take our licks if we hope to win the game. This needs to be taken with a grain of salt, though. You need to analyze the opponents damage output before you go accepting damage. If your opponent has the potential to do 8 d of damage, we can probably afford to take it. 16 d of damage, on the other hand, is a different story. Knowing how much damage you can take, and when you can take it, is the first lesson to winning with control. As well, when I say that we need to take damage, I do not mean that we should just put ourselves out there to be attacked. Light to moderate defense while setting up is never a bad thing.

Second, we need options. Not every opponent is going to do the same exact thing, although they all have the same end goal. For this reason, I believe the wizard is the strongest option when choosing a controlling mage. I also think the Warlock could be a good choice, for his curse option alone. We need to always be able to react to what the opponent is doing, no matter what we are trying to do. What gives us the most options? Familiars and spellbind cards, of course! I’ve been playing with Goblin Builder, for example, as a way to free up my planning for reactive cards, and letting the builder do the work for me. Deployment is our “card” advantage, and we are going to need to make as much use of it as possible.

Third, we are going to need utility creatures. There are so many creatures in this game, but there are only a few that give us multiple options. We need to utilize these creatures at whatever cost necessary. Look for creatures that not only have the option to attack, but as well roll to hit attacks, elusive, fast, etc. Our creatures will be doing the most damage, but they will also be out bodyguards. They will be threats that the opponent is going to have to deal with at any cost, and we need them to have as many options as they can as well. We also don’t want to waste tempo and cards buffing our creatures. We need our creatures to do work as soon as they are cast.

Now, what resources do we have in the game that we can use to our advantage? There are two obvious choices, and one not so obvious. The two obvious responses are damage and mana. The third is action advantage. We, in order to be the most effective, need to be able to control two of these three resources at any given time. For this reason, using cards like Suppression Orb, Mordok’s Obelisk, and Mana Siphon have a powerful impact. If we are gaining more resources than the opponent, than we can do more than the opponent. Cards like these also control the action advantage in the game. If they can only channel five a round, then chances are that they do not have a lot of options. Especially if we have 12 channeling to work with.

I see a huge problem when I do get the opportunity to see a control build, and that is that players will tip their hand before the game has even begun. I will see players cast Orb and Obelisk round two, and cloak on round three, making it incredibly easy for the opponent to play around. We need to play our control cards reactively. If we see two or three of the opponents creatures on the board, that is when we need to ease into control. Don’t tip your entire strategy in the beginning. Use that time to build. Make your channeling much better. Cast some equipment, maybe a creature. Take your time, but mind the opponent. If the opponent tries to get aggressive quickly, suppress the threat either by utilizing positional control or guarding. When your opponent runs out of steam, pounce. Pacify any large threat, as well as putting the cloak on.  Mana Siphon them as soon as they get close.

Attacking with the control mage is not as difficult as you would think. Only make attacks that will afford you tempo, or that will end the game. The rest of the damage should be done naturally or by your creatures. Don’t get greedy and think that you have enough tempo to just go aggressive. You will not win that way. Winning with control takes time, and discipline. If you keep hammering the opponents resources, eventually he will die.

There are many ways to kill a mage without ever rolling dice, and although it may take a lot more time, they are our way to victory. If we don’t have to roll to attack, we can use our action to seeking dispel, force crush, teleport. Ghoul rot them, Enfeeble them. Make them so weak that they cannot do anything but watch you dance around them. This is easier than you think! Just remember not to get greedy at all. Know that you will win eventually if you keep them down. I repeat this because I feel it is the most important part of the game.


Control is not easy to play by any means. You have to really, really, really work to achieve what you want to do, any you will often almost die doing it. But if you want to base your games not off of the better die roll, but off the better player, I think the control route is the best way to go, especially in a hyper aggressive meta, because of it’s flexibility and strength in the mid to late game. Mage Wars is a game of skill. Let’s keep it that way!

Dude.

24
Spellbook Design and Construction / Fire and Brimstone.
« on: June 26, 2013, 04:10:52 AM »
Hello my fellow Mage Warring Friends. Today, I bring you a man who brings Hell from his fingertips in the name of Asyra. A man who eats, sleeps, and breathes the name of his Lord and savior so much so that he even has an angel willing to die for him. I bring you... The Solo Priest. Because killing in the name of the lord is O.K.

This is a semi serious deck, one that I can run in casual games with intermediate level players.

1 Wall of Fire (4)
3 Hand of Sim Balla (3)
1 Temple of Light (2)

total: 9

This is not a very big temple package, but this is only a distraction/added damage, on top of the Priest's attacks. Dazing is fun, too. But it is too easily beaten to rely fully upon. The Wall of fire? Because I'm stackin burns, son! Force push you into the fray for 5d, potential burn, AND whiny music. Doesn't get better than that. If those you out there don't know who the Fray is, just be glad. Very, very, glad.

1 Highland Unicorn (3)
1 Guardian Angel (3)

Total: 15

Yes, I only have two creatures in the deck. Unicorn+hands is most all the support I will need for the match up, and Angel will guard for me, because, you know, the Priest Pimps Angels (alliteration intended, blasphemy not intended). I also don't want to have to trouble myself too much in getting out of the way of big attacks, so I can just use the angel to throw her in the way. This Priest is getting less, and less priesty as time goes on. Holy Avenger is for the unicorn, to keep him alive as long as possible.

3 Flameblast (6)
3 Fireball (12)

Total: 33

I am stacking burns, am I not? Getting an absolute burn on top of maybe two more burns is just too good to pass up. This is also a good end game condition.

1 Mongoose Agility (2)
2 Nullify (4)
1 Reverse attack (4)
1 Vampirism (6)
1 Circle of Fire (4)
2 Bear Strength (4)
1 Jinx (2)
1 Block (2)
1 Hawkeye (2)
1 Cheetah Speed (2)

total: 64

These are the obligatory enchantments that are go tos in most builds. Depending on how it plays out, Wardstone might find a place in here...

2 Battle Fury (4)
2 Dispel (4)
1 Sleep (4)
1 Teleport (4)
1 Explode (4)
2 Force Push (4)
1 Heal (2)
1 Purify (1)
2 Charge (4)
1 Dissolve (2)
1 Purge Magic (6)

Total: 103

This is the area I am probably going to change the most. Already there are not enough Seekings to warrent play. Two charge may be one too many, who knows. Testing is invaluable here.

1 Dragonscale Hauberk (2)
1 Staff of Asyra (2)
1 Gauntlets of Strength (2)
1 Leather Boots (1)
1 Fireshaper Ring (2)
1 Regrowth Belt (2)
1 Elemental Cloak (2)
1 Dawnbreaker Ring (1)
1 Sunfire Amulet (3)

Total: 120

Standard equip package. Note the Synergy with Priest with the ring. He doesn't have to have the Staff to be able to get the bonus. As well, Priest get's the natural chance to stun? The reason I took pillars of light out of this build is because THEY ARE FREE WITH THE PRIEST!

Anyways, that's my late night build. Thoughts, comments? Feel free to use and abuse at your own risk. Remember, Asyra is watching. Always watching.

 

25
Strategy and Tactics / The best defense is a good offense
« on: June 18, 2013, 01:50:00 AM »
I recently read a post from Nitrodavid asking what is the best delay tactics in the game, so I thought I would give some pointers to starting mages with a few ideas.

You have often heard in other games that the best defense is a good offense, and this holds especially true of Mage Wars. If your opponent is dead they cannot beat you, and as this is the objective in the game, nothing you do should do anything to hinder that goal. So, if you notice your opponent starting to build a swarm up, do not turtle! You are letting the opponent do what he wants to do while you are doing effectively nothing to win you the game. Go on the offensive! Drop a vine on them and start hurling boulders at their face. Make them react to what you are doing. If you have to teleport, use it in a way that will hinder the opponent's strategy while helping your own. You should never get yourself into a position that you could lose the game, unless you use that position to win the game. Casting six defenses on yourself is only giving you the chance to lose based on luck, and good tactical play should be the only defense you ever have to use. You should be using your forcefields to bait the opponent, not to run from him. Block should cast when you can use it gain tempo, not as a last ditch effort. So many games i've played where the opponent will be 5 away from dying and cast a block on themselves as a passive heal. This only delays the opponent, it doesn't stop them. As well, the good player will know that it is a block, hold the QC, and just Seeking dispel and then hammer or boulder your face. Making your opponent react to what you are doing will allow you to act better. You should never be reacting to a situation that will benefit your opponent, as it WILL lose you tempo. Let me give you an example:

Let's say I am an earth wizard, and I am at 20 damage and in the right Near Center of the board. My opponent is a forcemaster and is one zone away from me, threatening a 16 die attack w/ galvitar. Obviously you are going to have to move in that situation, but what is the most effective way to do this in order to gain tempo? Move one zone back and cast tanglevine. Now your opponent has to waste a turn attacking the tangle vine while you smash face and move further away. This defensive counterattack has probably cost the opponent the game, and it's all because instead of just moving , you went on the offensive and won the game because of it.

In closing to this short rant, casting spells to stop your opponent is most effective if you are also killing the opponent, and wasting time to get rid of things like Ghoul Rot and Regrowth will only lose you tempo, and the game. Realizing what is an actual threat and should be dealt with, and what is not, will often times be the difference between winning and losing.

Nitro, I hope this helps, and cheers!

26
So, The Crow has to be one of my favorite watches of this year. I know, I'm two decades later, but at least I got to see it now c: Watching the movie, I kept thinking about one card... Huginn. And the thought of building a deck around her seemed like an amazing prospect.

If any of you have seen the movie, you will know that the Crow kind of acts like Draven's eyes and ears, which is what this build is, well, built to do. This is a fresh idea with cards just thrown together, but I want to keep this as thematic as possible, so any help is greatly appreciated!

1 Nercopian Vampiress: this card will not see play until later on in the game, but she stands for Eric's fiance, who comes back from the dead the very end of the movie to "reunite" with him. Well, in Mage Wars, we are reuniting a little earlier. For VENGANCE. And better spelling lessons. But mostly VENGANCE.

1 Gorgon Archer: This was the closest I could get to the black cop in the movie, as she supports with shots. It was either that, or Stonegaze basilisk, which cripples, or freezes the opponents, which is what Albrecht is supposed to say to Draven halfway when they first meet.

1 Huginn: This is the crow. Keep her around two zones away from you at all times. Enough to support her, but far enough to see just what the opponent is up to!

1 Wall of Fire: Draven seems to enjoy fire in The Crow, as well as being support, this is the "flames" of his VENGANCE.

1 Battle Forge: This is the Pawn shop he blew up near the beginning. He stole basically his "equipment" for the rest of the movie, including a ring, so I figured this would be a perfect fit. Note that loving BF has NOTHING to do with this addition or it's abstract explanation into theme. NONE.

2 Mana Crystal: Hey, the undead need power, too.

1 Mage Staff: As there are no guitars in the game, this was a good replacement, allowing me to deal with flyers AND rock out (kind of).

1 Mage Wand: For spamming vampiric strike. Why? Because as we can't just press "auto heal" like Draven does, we want to kick ass WHILE taking names AND healing. That's why.

1 Elemental Wand: This is the "lighter" ignition that he takes from T-bird to blow him to hell and high water.

1 Elemental Cloak: Leather Jackets are needed. This will do.

1 Moonglow amulet: Man, you don't even understand how much power it takes to make the undead live. Don't even.

1 Leather Boots: You notice those LEATHER goth boots he wears? These are those, and those are these.

1 Gauntlets of Strength: Draven is a pretty strong guy. Our wizard is not:/ This helps fix that.

1 Enchanter's Ring & 1 Fireshaper Ring: These represent the engagement ring Draven gave to Shelly. In the beginning of the movie, it's meant to kind build the character while fueling the fire. Enchant ring does that nicely. Near the end of the movie, he gives this ring to a little girl, and said girl promptly gets kidnapped. The Fireshaper's Ring represents that love he has for the girl, and gives him just enough power to kick a lot more ass and take a few more names. Of course they are at the same time.

1 Purify: Draven has the power to "heal" people of poisons, as seen in the little girl's complete turn around from an addiction to morphine. Purify takes the poisons away.

1 Sniper shot: When he kills Tin-Tin, the first victim, he wins when he throws a knife at Tin-tin that pins him to a wall, a perfect shot. I wanted to mimic this moment.

2 Drain Power: These will let you get on the upper hand. Thematically, they are when he "Throws" thirty hours of pain at once onto Top Dollar.

3 Force Push: Position control, so that you may "sneak up" on the opponents. Draven did this a LOT.

1 Steal Enchantment: Nothing is better than using the opponent against himself, and Draven does this throughout the movie.

1 Purge Magic: Draven effectively turns off everyone's offense because of his "I'm dead wait no i'm not i'll kill you dude" approach. Incredibly sophisticated, I know.

2 Dispel: See above.

2 Explode: He blows up the shop by shooting rings out of a shot gun. Exploding them out, one could even say.

2 Vampiric Strike: A thematic way to heal c:

2 Seeking Dispel: huginn does have a second ability!

1 Dissolve: Cheaper than explode, and you see dispel above ^.^

2 Hellfire Trap: The pawnshop owner has to jump out of his store in order to stop it from killing him. Welcome to Hellfire trap. Or don't come in, on second thought. Unless you dig the whole "dying" thing.

1 Circle of fire: Swarm control, and is what gives the wizard the Aura of VENGANCE that Draven creates for himself.

1 Jinx: Don't attack me, it won't do anything!

1 Regrowth: A slightly more thematic approach to healing Draven style, but slower.

2 Block: these are here to show just how invincible Draven is. Also, getting slammed for damage is never fun.

1 Vampirism: See thematic Healing.

1 Agony: 30 hours of pain in a single second. 30 hours. That's Agony, if I may.

1 Hawkeye: Draven doesn't really miss, like, ever.

2 Nullify: Stop what you are doing, now.

1 Reverse: Did I stutter? I don't think so. SMACK.

1 Mongoose Agility: Draven is so sneaky. Too sneaky...

1 Ghoul Rot: Here, go be dead over there, and tell me how fun it is. -Eric (on being undead).

1 Decoy: LOOK OVER THERE A DISTRACTION! This card should be called "Neck". Draven does this so much during the movie it's not funny. No really, it's a very serious movie.

3 Flameblast, 3 Fireball, 1 Firestorm, 1 Ring of Fire: This is that spectacular explosion of car Near the end of the movie that results in the ultimate VENGANCE for Draven, and had to be included in spades in here. Also, kill the mage. But that's so 5 threads ago guys, which, on this forum, is about 3 months. Jk c:

So, what do you guys think? Thematic or not? And, less importantly, winning or not?


27
Strategy and Tactics / The Art of (Mage) Wars
« on: June 03, 2013, 02:57:02 AM »
The Art of (Mage) Wars

There is a reason intelligence is great among a gaming group, and it is less obvious than you might first think. Besides the increased sense of logic and creativity, gamers are also mostly well read. Yes, you read me right, the chances are that any person of modest intelligence reads a lot, but I think the likeness for books is especially so with gamers. I me think about it, gamers have to read incredibly complex rulebooks, read paragraphs of text on cards, of which there might be hundreds, and finally, many gamers read about their game, be it strategy articles, FAQs, deck lists, variants, etc. Reading is a huge part of gaming culture. So, where does this tie in? Well, there is a certain famous book call The Art of War by Sun Tzu. In it, it gives all the important rules for competitive success. Today, I will be applying some of he wrote to our favorite game. Specifically, I will be discussing Tzu's Warrior rules, which are basically rules used to advance position in competition without using that oh so weak fight or flight complex.

The Rules

So what are these rules for the uninitiated? Well, they are as follows:

1. Understanding positions

2. Developing perspective

3. Identifying opportunities

4. Leveraging probability.

5. Minimizing mistakes.

6. Responding to situations.

7. Creating momentum.

8. Winning rewards.

9. Defending vulnerabilities.

Following these nine rules, any player in Mage Wars, or any gamer in particular, will greatly increase their winning percentage, and ultimately become a more decision oriented, priority driven person. Is this a bad thing? Well, if you’re a dude, more specifically THE dude, you may not want to apply these rules to real life. But for most people who crave success, applying these will win you games outright. So, how do we apply these rules?

Understanding Positions

Positioning in Mage Wars is arguably the most important part of winning the game. If you have a terrible position, you will lose the game outright. But how do we understand and take advantage of our position, and when do we need to reevaluate our position to not lose the game? Well, in order to do this, we need to look at certain aspects of the game board, and the player board.

The first and most important is the number of creatures on the board in relation to you and your life total - damage. When looking at these creatures, evaluate attack strength by looking at the number of dice they roll to attack compared to your defenses (meant in the general, not literal, sense), and the effects that they can dish out. Also, look at any enchantments they may have on themselves, as well as looking at any conditions they might be affected by, their relative life total compared to how damage they have, and finally, look at their sustainability rate (the amount of time they will likely stay on the board due to healing effects/life total). Now, compare that to what you have out on the board. You don't need to have more creatures on the board than your opponent, but you do need to have more mobile creatures, and more sustainable creatures. Why is this? Because the less sustainable the opponent's creatures are, the worse they are going to have to position themselves for either more summoning, or support of said creature. The more we (and our creatures) can get around the board, the more we can kill sustainable and mobile threats, the worse we will make our opponent's position look, and make our position that much more superior.

The next obstacle we need to worry about it is where we are on the board in comparison to the enemy mage. Why is this so important? Because where the enemy is, we need our forces to be, and the longer it takes to get there, the harder it will be for us to get there. For that reason, we want ourselves to be in the center of the board as much as can to get as much of a positioning advantage as we can. Think of the board as a hill, with the sides being the bottom and side of the hill, and the two center squares being at the top of the board. With this position, as the attacker, we can see and fight any opposition that tries to obtain the top of the hill. This is if we are the attacker.

If we are defending, we need to be as far away from the opposition as possible. This is why Teleport is such a strong card. It is both a defensive and offensive card. We can use both to get ourselves out of a sticky situation, and to place creatures in a position that will attack the opponent effectively.

The final bullet on this list is looking at your conjurations. If they are spawn points, where are they in relation to the "action"? Usually, we want to place spawn points as close to, or in the center, as possible. This gives them the greatest range of attack, and allows us to better place the creatures with that spawn point. This is especially so with Battle forge, as we always want to be within 2 range of battle forge as long as we are using it. For this reason, stronger players will commit their battle forges to vulnerability in exchange for greater positioning by placing their battle forges in the near center (one of the two center squares) of the board.

Developing Perspective

This is one of the more confusing of the rules, because it challenges us to first understand WHAT our perspective is, before we can understand the direction we want that perspective to go. So, what as a player in Mage Wars do we want do be doing? Killing the enemy mage. There is our perspective. How to achieve what we perceive is another matter entirely however, and it starts in the spell book.

When you are building your spell book for the first time, you want to first stop and think: "How can I win with the mage I want to use?” In order to do this, you first need to look at the abilities you have as a mage, and compare them to what you have naturally at your disposal in the form of cards. Relying on a swarm strategy may not be the most effective for the priestess. We can see this through her abilities, which reward enchantment and incantation casting, as well as providing a support role, which can be wasted if perspective is lost and we go for a losing strategy. Going solo may not be the best option for the Wizard. This is for multiple reasons, with the first being that he does not contain the "Battle skill" Keyword. The second is that he only has 32 life. 16 damage can almost kill him, which, for 8 mana, is a possibility. This would not be so bad if he had the inherent ability to defend against large attacks, but the voltaric shield is only good for one attack, and it's ability is most effective against a single attack a turn, which cannot happen if he is going solo. His abilities are more suited for control, which is, making the opponent not able to cast very many creatures, or punishing the mage for over extending and trying to swarm the wizard. WE can also see this through the inherent cards the Wizard possesses, such as nullify, and suppression cloak. All of these tend to lead toward a powerful control strategy, but not so with a solo strategy. Please note that this is not always the case. Some mages may have the option to go solo, or the option to swarm. But looking for the most effective strategy is what we are doing here.

The next thing we need to do after examining WHAT we want our mage to do, we to examine HOW we can get there with the current card pool. This consists of three stages:

Defense

Offense

Meta

We will handle Defense first, because it the easier of the three topics to explain. By defense, I mean cards that are hard counters to any potentially threatening cards your opponent may try to play. Cards like seeking dispel, Dispel, and dissolve all fill these roles as defensive cards, although they may be used aggressively under certain circumstances. These three cards in particular are usually a 2 of in most spell books, and that's a good starting number. Understand that these are Worst-case scenario cards. You do not want to cast these unless you have no other way around the card, as they are extreme tempo set backs, and can lose you the game if you don't cast them carefully. This is all we will talk about until after we have covered both Offensive and Meta plans.

With the offensive, we need to compare what we want to do with our mage with the best way to go about that. AS an example, let's take a simple Fire Wizard. Looking at his abilities, we can see that he would be really good for a controlling/midrange strategy based on controlling the board and attacking with a few creatures, but using those creatures to keep the opponents from attacking. From this point, we can look at our options for the proactive offensive, that is, what we are going to do to control the board, and what we are going to do to attack the mage. For this, a mana denial strategy may be a good one to adopt, so we add in a Suppression Orb and a Mordok's Obelisk. We then see that Suppression cloak is a fantastic card! We instantly add two to our potential spell pool, as it is wise to assume that this may be a card the opponent dissolves. Next, we see that Pacify is an excellent enchantment that goes with the strategy we have planned out, so we start out with three... why not!? We can trim these down later when we trim our spell book. We also notice a card called Essence Drain, which will go great with Mordok's obelisk. Let's add four for now. (Usually I add an exorbitant amount of copies to my card pool at first, because I am lazy, and do not want to search for more copies of a card, making the whole process slightly more efficient!).

This seems to be enough for our mana denial strategy, so now let's look at big creatures that may be good to attack with. For this, you may need to go out of faction to find the most damaging creature, but often, paying 8 or ten spell book points for a powerful creature that will surprise your opponent and put him out of his own perspective will be worth the price. For this, I see two creatures in particular. The Gorgon can play a fantastic role as a defensive creature, weakening the creatures the opponent can attack with, and doing a decent amount of damage with them as well. But what about the creature that CAN get through for a decent amount of dice? Iron Golem seems like a fine guarding card, as he can counter attack for 6 dice worth of damage! At 6 points, he does seem a little expensive though... are there any other cheaper options? We could switch our Wizard all together to avoid the three points, but I don't think this is hurtful enough to consider that option. We do a powerful attacking creature, who is relatively mobile... Hmm... Well... we are the Fire Mage. Let's invoke Adremalich. For a mighty 1/12 of our spell book, he may seem like too much of a threat, but I do think he is powerful enough to really swing the game in our favor as soon as we have gained the slightest edge.

Let's look at other equipment that may help us with attacking, of which I see only card in particular, and that is fire shaper ring, which will help us immensely to attack the Mage when we can. Elemental wand is a must, too, now that we thing about it. Two of those are also a must if we assume the opponent will dissolve one. Oh, and Moonglow amulet, to help us cast and keep our three creatures alive and kicking! But do we want any offensive enchantments? Bear strength might be good, and so might cheetah speed, and these are all cards you may want to look at when deciding what you want to include. For offensive incantations, teleport is a four of, as we can have 4 for 8 spell points, and this card is so powerful with our strategy. As far as attack spells? Let's try a two of for all the fire attack spells, and we can trim that number up quite a bit during later stages.

Four pieces of equipment so far, and not even a scratch in the defensive plan? We may want to include battle forge. What other conjurations might we want to include? Hmm.. Mana crystals are a must, as they help cast these expensive creatures, and we will add four for right now. Fire walls might be good to help block our opponent from supporting his creatures or retreating effectively, let's add two. I think that's all we need as far as conjurations go for right now.

Now it's time for defense (Again, of course). After adding our package of 2 dissolve, 2 Dispel, 2 Seeking Dispel, let's look at what else we can add to help solidify our defenses. Looking at our card pool, we can see that a block can be could here, and as the goal is to let the opponent attack with no more than one creature a turn, we can just add one, as this will be for incoming big attacks. Other enchantments? Well, Regrowth can help us heal a bit, as when it comes to the mid game, we may be on 16 damage, and if we slow the game down to a crawl, this can help drastically with getting us back to enough health to attack. Nullify is a great card for us, as it allows to us to cancel enchantments on the opposition for cards they place on their creatures, as well as dissolves they try to pull on us if they see something they don't like. As far as incantations go, force push is a card I like to add one of, as it combos well with our wall, and we can use it defensively to get players out of our zone, or better position out cards. Purify as a one of it not bad here, as it allows us to get rid of any poison conditions and enchantments any aggro solo enemy may try to throw on us.

Defensive equipment will really shine here because of our Battle Forge, and for that, let's add a Dragonscale Hauberk, as that defends readily against a Warlock opponent, as well as giving us two armor. Leather boots and Gloves are great additions, as they allow us to almost freely get a lot of armor early. Arcane ring will be good as we are casting a lot of meta and mana spells. A mage wand or two to help us with teleports, as well as allowing the opponent to think we only have one teleport, and trying to max out it's usage. If we add a minor heal, it will also be a great target for the wand. A regrowth belt will be good here as well.

Meta means that you are adding certain cards to fight again current match-ups that you expect to face. These cards are usually a one or two of, and are much better if they have a dual purpose, as most of the cards in here, save armor, have dual purposes, having your meta cards do that is great as well. Note that this is not what spell type Meta in Mage Wars stands for, that particular spell type stands for spells that almost every mage will use.

I will not refine any picks here, as I believe we have spent long enough on spell book building, but I do think that this is the best example of gaining perspective, and illustrates perfectly that if you do not have a well thought out spell book that does not hone in on the perspective you have, you have lost game before you have even begun to play. This we be a key element in understanding the rest of the discussion.





28
Okay, so I lied. It's pseudo aggro, but still! This is an entire deck based around the oh so naughty Intervention/Vampiress combo that has inspired hate into all of our hearts. But, I do feel it is the opening line that will win the priestess the most games, Especially if she helps in the destruction! Why do I call this Build Frank Lucas? Because this deck aims to be a ruthless attack. That's it. Kill the enemy. Or die trying.

So, here is the build!

1 Staff of Asyra- This is what the Priestess will be attacking with as soon as those hands drop. It's an incredibly broken card to add to our incredibly broken list of things for the Priestess to do.
1 Leather Gloves- These Handy dandy things are what we call "cheap protection", and that's all we could really ask for.
1 Elemental Cloak- because it's always good to preemptively build for the other menace, that devil welding warlock.
1 Dawnbreaker Ring- This combos with just about everything we want the Priestess to be doing, AND it's 3 mana.
1 Dancing Scimitar- because S will hit the F, and free attacks are the best. The best.
1 Leather Boots- Oh man, these will look so stylish with our gloves, and discounted at 2 mana? Count me in.
1 Regrowth belt- The greatest health recovery card in the game, as it's not as random as rolling attack dice. It's static, and it keeps the Fluffy priestess alive.

1 Necropian Vampiress- Yes, it's 12 points. Yes, it's worth it. I mean, she's got Frost -2!!! And she's basically immortal with a five dice vampiric attack. But that's nothing compared to Frost -2. And 2 armor and fifteen life? Yes. Just Yes.
3 Grey Angel- This is another opening the deck can have, it's not as fast, but these creatures are your support. Because you are the Vampiress's support, and you need to stay alive. For the Vampire.

1 Cobra Reflexes- This is fun to put on the Priestess to watch them frolic in happiness as they just miss you. Defense rings may come in at some point..
1 Bear Strength- For Vampire. Do I need to say anymore?
2 Block- for the rare cases that your opponent can attack you, you can always just scream nope as you windmill this. Or you could not do that. The latter is preferred.
1 Nullify- this is for the Vampiress before she makes her rather long journey to the opponent's side of the board, so that they don't try and act crazy and put her to sleep.
1 Divine Intervention- The other piece to our combo and how we get the Vampire to journey to exactly where the opponent waits. When you flip this face up, make sure you say "Intervene this!". The blank look in your opponent's face afterwards is almost guaranteed. Almost.
2 Divine protection- These go the Gray Angels in most cases, but if you want to throw them on yourself and feel all protected, by all means.
1 Regrowth- I love static healing effects. Can't you tell?
1 Rhino Hide- for the Priestess if there gets to be a mid game... i say "if" sarcastically.
1 Circle of Lightning- because why don't we stun them even more?!
1 Force Orb- We are building our defenses, aren't we now?

1 Heal- Okay, we can't go out there completely unprotected.
1 Charge- If they try to teleport away from the Vampiress, just play this silently, in respect for the piece of their soul that just died.
1 Minor Heal- This is my dirty little secret, okay? Healing the Vampiress (if she needs it), while getting us a little high on life is never a bad return investment!
2 Seeking dispel- Can I tell the number of times people have tried to cast Block in response to a ten dice attack? 2.
2 Teleport- I don't want to be caught outside the house with out at least one, and two assures me that the opponent will not be getting away from me anytime soon.
2 Dispel- I laughed at that Turn to Stone, because Dispel.
1 Resurrection- if they ever kill your Vampiress, first of all this should NEVER happen, but on the off chance it does, this will give you a second shot. Don't waste this one. Seriously, dude. Don't.
1 Purge Magic- I hate when people try to bog my vampire down with a bunch of curses. It's not only rude, but it's attempted murder. Purge magic fixes all that nonsense.
1 Explode- this is the greatest one-of in the history of the past five minutes. When they cast any sort of armor.... make them explode. Now they are on fire AND they are dying. Fun times. The reason I first thought of calling this deck Frank lucas was because I pictured in my head the Vampiress standing over a burning mage, and it was just like the beginning of American Gangster. I thought it fit nicely!
1 Battle Fury- You know those hands of Bim shalla? You know that Quick attack that the Vampiress has? Double that. Mind blown? I think so.
2 Dissolves- because they are going to try to get a Mage Wand with teleport or minor heal on it at some point. Not.
1 Sleep- The only controlling card in the deck, it is a counter to if the opponent tries to throw a big threat at use while they deal with ours. But no. Not today.

1 Temple of the Dawnbreaker- Because Quicksand is a card, and this is the best defense against it, sadly. Or a loaded d12..... Hmm.
4 Hand of Bimshalla- Yes, there are four. No, we probably don't need that many. But you never know.
2 Temple of light- This just seals the deal against the opponent. And on the off chance that they can some how destroy it? We have another stocked up in the back, just waiting.

2 Pillar of Light- Stunning is so much fun.
1 Blinding Flash- another counter to any kind of swarm strategy that may ensue. But it really just buys me time so that I can get out a harder counter to the swarm option.

So, that's it!What do you guys think?


29
Hello friends! So I've came up with this idea while thinking about swarm attacks and how fuzzy they can be. I also noticed a shear lack of Fellella being played. I think Beastmaster has the perfect set of abilities to be able to go from aggro to control mid game. It's just a theory so far, but here is the starting plan:

Round one [19 mana]

Face down harmonize as a quickcast [17]
Move up one, cast mana crystal behind you [12]
EOT reveal Harmonize [8]

Round two [19 mana]
Quickcast battleforge in the center [11]
Move into zone with battle forge and cast mana crystal behind you [6]

Round three [18 mana]
Battle forge out a Ring of Beasts [17]
Quickcast Darkfenne Bats [13]
Cast Another Darkfenne Bats [8]

Round four [20 mana]
Sit tight with battle forge
Quickcast darkfenne Bats [16]
And Rouse it [15]

Round 5 [27]
Battle forge out Enchanter's Ring  [27]
Fullcast Valshalla, Lightning angel [6]
Quickcast nullify on Valshalla [5]

From there, you want to carefully let your opponent kill your devils while rotting him a bit. Go hard with Valshalla, and 12 mana a turn ^.^ It's a slower start, but I feel that this is a powerful start. If the opponent is soloing you, after round two prepare timber wolf as a pet w/ a bear strength, and that should help significantly.

When to cast Fellella? She is the tool box creature, and should be cast about midgame, in this scenario, one turn after you cast Valshalla would most likely be the best bet.

So, here is what the deck looks like as a whole:

Creature Suite:

1 Fellella, Pixie Familiar
1 Sosruko, Ferret Companion
1 Galador, Protector of Straywood
1 Steelclaw Grizzly (quickly becoming a staple of my builds)
1 Valshalla, Lightning Angel
3 Darkfenne Bats
1 Timber Wolf
3 Thunderrift Falcons (late game swarm that is a little hard to deal with]
2 Feral Bobcat
1 Gauntlets of Strength
1 Enchanter's Ring
1 Elemental Cloak
1 Bearskin
1 Regrowth Belt
1 Ring of Beasts
1 Staff of Beasts

Enchantment Toolbox:

1 Magebane
1 Ghoul Rot
1 Cobra Reflexes
1 Bull Endurance
1 Eagle Wings
2 Jinx
1 Harmonize
1 Regrowth
1 Block
1 Cheetah Speed
2 Bear Strength
1 Decoy
1 Falcon Precision
1 Mongoose Agility
1 Nullify
1 Rhino Hide

Obligatory hard counter package:

1 Seeking dispel
2 Dispel
2 Dissolve

One ofs that every deck could always benefit from:

1 Force Push
1 Battle Fury
1 Teleport (sdouglas has put into my head that Teleport is always good. Always :3)
1 Minor Heal (This is more for creatures than myself, but it can be used on me)

Beastmaster musts:

2 Rouse the Beast
2 Call of the Wild

And Finally, the misc.:

1 Battle Forge
1 Wall of Thorns
2 Tanglevine
2 Mana Crystal
2 Rajan's Fury

1 Arc Lightning
1 Lightning Bolt

The two attack spells are meant to help kick the mage while they are down, so that they don't get back up.

Thoughts, suggestions, comments? I've built like three terrible BM builds now, and I think this one could actually stand a chance!


30
Spellbook Design and Construction / this is a Force of Nature.
« on: May 30, 2013, 11:09:51 PM »
I'm thinking you guys like the Forcemaster. I mean, she is pretty sweet. I wanted to have her be kind of like the piousfleas LoF build, but I didn't want to pay for LoF. So, I had another idea... Steelclaw grizzly. This guy works wonders in this deck, but without further ado, here it is:

3 thoughtspore
1Invisible Stalker (fuzzy on this, may swap for tangle vines/something else)
1 steelclaw Grizzly

1 Wall of Thorns
1 Wall of fire
1 Wall of Pikes
1 Tangle vine
1 Battle Forge

2 Dancing Scimitar
2 Defense Ring
1 Gauntlets of Strength
1 dragonscale Hauberk
1 Regrowth Belt
1 Galvitar, Force Blade
1 Elemental Cloak
1 Leather Boots
1 Moonglow amulet

1 Jet Sream
1 Pillar of Light
1Invisible Fist
1 Force Hammer

1 Vampirism
3 Block
2 Reverse Attack
1 Hellfire Trap
1 ForceField
1 Cheetah Speed
1 Decoy
1 Teleport Trap
1 Mongoose Agility
2 Bear Strength

2 Dissolve
1 Dispel
1 Seeking Dispel
1 Mass sleep
1 Power Strike
1 Battle Fury
3 Force Push
1 Force Wave
1 Sleep
1 Perfect Strike


So, what is the strategy? Well, the is mostly a solo build. Thoughtspores can help keep cards at bay, which the reason for the plethora of level 1 attack spells. Grizzly for when you start to stall the opponent. He is what will win you the game, as they will have to deal with him to get to you. You work with the grizzly, and he works for you. Why the number of different walls? Well, I'm testing out the different walls to see which ones are best w/force push. Wall of Thorns if they get too cocky and put on no armor, Wall of Fire near the mid game to stall them a bit, and Wall of pikes to help stop a creature rush with force wave. This is deck is undefeated so far, so I would like to hear your thoughts on what I can do to better this build.

I am thinking about taking out the Mass Sleep and the Invisible Stalker and one block for a more direct approach of +1 Battle fury, +1 Dispel, +1 Tanglevine, +1 Eagle Wings (Bear). Thoughts?

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